December 17- now
This week I had a break through on a variety of levels with my village. It was a slightly rough week as Juster was in Njombe all week visiting her family for the holidays, so I was alone. At first I didn't really know what to do and realized how dependant I have become on her, so it was actually sort of good to be forced out of that comfort zone.
This week Tally walked with me to my site. We had fun spending the night at my house where I tried to teach her the joys of making crepes, warm bucket baths, and fresh brewed coffee. After she left I decided to finish my garden. I know it is snowing in Oregon but spring has come in the Southern Highlands. Birds are singing everywhere, the grass is tall and green and the grasshoppers are everywhere. I have been working hard at digging up my courtyard which was entirely grass. If you know me, than you know I am not much of a "manual laborer". But I really got with it and since all good Tanzanians are planting right now, I decided I would be good and fit in with my village. So I slaved away hoeing in the sunlight. In the end my hands were blistered and bloody and I had gone full force Tanzanian-style and risked worms to work in the garden barefoot. It felt good to be creating something, and to feel a connection with the earth around me. I dug ditches around the beds I created because there is limited water in Africa, the ditches will hold the rain in and allow my beds to be watered. I now have three 8' X 3.5' beds, one 4.5'X 8' bed and one 15'x 4' bed. I have planted flowers (African Daisies, Marigolds, California Poppies, Calendula, Sunflowers, and Nasturtiums). I planted a variety of lettuce, Swiss Chard, Kale, Spinach, Arugula, Broccoli, Green Peppers, Cucumber, Summer Squash, Pumpkins, Eggplant, Beets, Radishes, Carrots, Green Beans, Snap Peas, and Pineapple. My herb garden is Lavender, Dill, Catnip, Thyme, Basil, Oregano, Chives, Parsley, Rosemary, and Tarragon. There was already a Tanzanian hot pepper bush in my yard that I kept and it full of flowers. We will see if any of it grows but as a Vegetarian, I will be excited to have any of my own veggies. While I worked like a Turk, Kimulimuli spent his time chasing lizards, pouncing on the hoe, and digging up then pooping wherever I had just planted... oh, that cat.
This week I considered starting a daycare. All the kids are now out of school for the holidays, so as I walked around my village this week I realized that there was only children anywhere. All the adults were working in the farms on the outskirts of the village. They just leave there little tiny kids wandering around. But than I noticed these were the kids who were cooking the meals, fetching the water, running the shops and felt like they were making a daycare for me than the other way round. One of my big break-throughs this week was as I was walking a kid started yelling excitedly, "Mzungu! Mzungu!" (White Person). They get so excited to see me that it is not malicious or anything, but it is like they can't contain themselves. I turn just in time to hear another kid say to him, "No, No, That is Mwalimu Brie" (Teacher Brie). Then they both started yelling "Mwalimu!" so I turned and waved to them but I could have hugged them for it. Over the week many of the kids had switched to using my name or teacher. To suddenly no longer be "white Person" does a lot for feeling like you are included in your village.
I have a new adopted family. Mama David, who I wrote of before, except now I am going to call her Mama Mary because I think Mary is her child who I will get to know the best. Since I had nothing else to do I went to her home. She runs a shop out of her house and also is a tailor. She speaks no English but is patient, willing to talk slow, and use words that I know. She was so encouraging that I ended up spending a lot of time talking this week. I know my Swahili was sloppy and I made mistakes but my villagers loved it. One day I just hung out at her shop while she was working and after a while a crowd had sort of gathered to hang out with me. We somehow got on the subject of my mugging. I acted/told the whole story to my villagers making tongue clicks and verbal reactions of horror. Then I succeeded in convincing them that I have no money because of this event and they even agreed saying that I don't even have a car. If anything this moment made me feel supported by my villagers and made me feel that I will probably never get robbed in village. Mama Mary is a sweetheart and she is the first Tanzanian to acknowledge that it must be really hard for me to be away from my family in a village alone. She invited me to spend Christmas with her family. She invited me to spend nights there. She told me she would teach me Kibena. I love her and I love Mary. Mama Mary told me that Mary talks about me nonstop and is so excited to start school because I will be teaching there. She has an adorable toothless grin and plays dress up. So I have adopted them as my TZ village family.
The other big event of the week happened on my way into town. I convince the driver of my village car that even though it is not running he should run it for me. Luckily, in some ways the crush pays off and Stanley agrees to take me to town. He says that the village is out of supplies anyways and so he will see if anyone else wants to go. I am relieved that I get to go spend Christmas with my friends. When he picks me up at 4 am there is another guy in the front seat too who is about my age. This guy has had some secondary school and so he speaks a few words of English which is helpful when I don't understand his Swahili. Anyways, I end up talking to the two of them the whole way to town. So at 4.30 am I am discussing the Iraq war, and what I think the merits are to a Obama presidency. They share with me problems in our village from lack of education to too many kids etc. Then we get on the subject that a white woman must get on when she is with two Tanzanian men of her same age: When am I getting married? What is my bride price? Why am I not already married? etc. These guys are totally harmless village guys so I talk with them about how Americans don't believe in bride price, how I am waiting to get married, and I can't cook Ugali so therefore I can't marry a Tanzanian. I say that it is important for me to do what I am doing in Africa because I am a health volunteer and maybe can help here. Then Oscar (the other guy) asks me if I will teach about using condoms. I say that I will. Then we proceed to have the most embarrassing conversation I have had so far in Tanzania. Both of them tell me excuse and excuse about why condoms won't work. (I won't go into them because I am not sure who is reading this.) I blush for a second that we are talking about this at all, but then I think "Brie, pull it together. These are a hard to reach group of people that have most of the control and tend to have many partners. This is the reason why you are here." So I pull it together, I toughen up, just because I am a 24 year old girl doesn't mean I can't tell them what is what. It is not enough to just talk to a mamas group or teach Primary School students, these men need to be reached also. So we have an open discussion about condom use and I think it went well. I actually joked with them a bit but then firmly ended with that their lives and other people's depended on the use. The great thing was they weren't awkward at all about talking about it with me. They seemed to genuinely want to know and wanted to listen. At they end they said they understood... So maybe my teaching has begun? I think Stanley will be a great in with this twenty- something single male group in my village and I have already started to brainstorm ways that this group might now be reached.
Now, I am in Njombe. Getting ready for a holiday celebration at our hotel with about 30 other PCVs. We are doing a gift exchange and the hotel staff is letting us use their kitchen (which has an oven!) so we can make a holiday feast. Merry Christmas everyone! I miss and love you.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Happy Holidays
Hey Friends and Family,
Just a note to wish you all Happy Holidays and a Wonderful New Year! Things are going fine in Tanzania, I am a little poorer than I expected to be but hamnashida, as we would say here. (No Problems).
Now for a little story: Just went to the bank which is the prime example of Tanzanian inefficiency as the bank is almost always an all day experience. As I am waiting in line (I had already been there for an hour) and man after man cuts in front of me. I know this is a cultural difference here but I start to get a little pissed off. I am not sure if it is because I am a woman and therefore a second class citizen or because I am white so they think I don't know what is going on. But finally when the fourth guy cuts me, I throw a big hissy fit in the bank. Now usually I am able to keep my temper under control, but not today. So I tell them in Swahili "Not Cool", basically. They laugh at me but give me my way. For the next two hours of line standing we all sort of joke about it... "Haha, the foreigner knows whats going on and wouldn't let it happen." But the whole experience made me realize that equality is very ingrained in our culture. It doesn't always play out but for the most part Americans value equality, fairness and justice and get angry when we feel we are not being treated in a just manner.
I began to think that for most Americans we only apply this rule to other Americans, not to people in other countries. We figure that's just the way things are. There were countless times while working for Mercy Corps that I heard Americans say things like, "Well, all Africans are poor, that's just the way things are." (This is entirely untrue, many are and some are not.) or "We should be helping people in our own country." (We should, but why should arbitrary borders justify who receives help?) Anyways, the point of this is I would like to encourage people to extend our sense of equality over the boarders this holiday season. All people are people and should be treated fairly and have equal opportunity to success and happiness whether they are French, Iraqi, Cuban, Indian, Tanzanian or whatever. Please consider how you could be part of this change. What difference can you make? Volunteer for something or the holidays are always a good time to give a gift to an Aid Organization- I recommend Mercy Corps (www.mercycorps.org)
I hope the season is Merry and Bright. I love and miss all of you so much. Thanks you for the countless emails, packages and letters. I am so lucky to have all of you in my life. Be well.
Blessings,
Brie
www.brieintanzania.blogspot.com
"It's been a long December and there's reason to believe maybe this year will be better than the last. I can't remember all the times I tried to tell myself to hold on to these moments as they pass."
-Counting Crows
Just a note to wish you all Happy Holidays and a Wonderful New Year! Things are going fine in Tanzania, I am a little poorer than I expected to be but hamnashida, as we would say here. (No Problems).
Now for a little story: Just went to the bank which is the prime example of Tanzanian inefficiency as the bank is almost always an all day experience. As I am waiting in line (I had already been there for an hour) and man after man cuts in front of me. I know this is a cultural difference here but I start to get a little pissed off. I am not sure if it is because I am a woman and therefore a second class citizen or because I am white so they think I don't know what is going on. But finally when the fourth guy cuts me, I throw a big hissy fit in the bank. Now usually I am able to keep my temper under control, but not today. So I tell them in Swahili "Not Cool", basically. They laugh at me but give me my way. For the next two hours of line standing we all sort of joke about it... "Haha, the foreigner knows whats going on and wouldn't let it happen." But the whole experience made me realize that equality is very ingrained in our culture. It doesn't always play out but for the most part Americans value equality, fairness and justice and get angry when we feel we are not being treated in a just manner.
I began to think that for most Americans we only apply this rule to other Americans, not to people in other countries. We figure that's just the way things are. There were countless times while working for Mercy Corps that I heard Americans say things like, "Well, all Africans are poor, that's just the way things are." (This is entirely untrue, many are and some are not.) or "We should be helping people in our own country." (We should, but why should arbitrary borders justify who receives help?) Anyways, the point of this is I would like to encourage people to extend our sense of equality over the boarders this holiday season. All people are people and should be treated fairly and have equal opportunity to success and happiness whether they are French, Iraqi, Cuban, Indian, Tanzanian or whatever. Please consider how you could be part of this change. What difference can you make? Volunteer for something or the holidays are always a good time to give a gift to an Aid Organization- I recommend Mercy Corps (www.mercycorps.org)
I hope the season is Merry and Bright. I love and miss all of you so much. Thanks you for the countless emails, packages and letters. I am so lucky to have all of you in my life. Be well.
Blessings,
Brie
www.brieintanzania.blogspot.com
"It's been a long December and there's reason to believe maybe this year will be better than the last. I can't remember all the times I tried to tell myself to hold on to these moments as they pass."
-Counting Crows
Friday, December 12, 2008
Fighting Witchcraft in a Pine Forest
December 11, 2008
There is a new volunteer who lives very close to me. I wanted to go visit her, so I told Jen and Juster what I was doing. The tell me there is a shortcut to get to her school that makes the walk only 7k, they will take me there. I tell them just to point me in the direction but Juster is insistent that they accompany me. So I tell them I want to leave at 8 am Thursday morning, which I really have no intention of doing, but sometimes you have to lie about time to Tanzanians. I go to Juster's house at 9 am to find her drinking chai. She says, "Brie, Don't mind, but I need to bathe." This I have already predicted. I know we are going on a walk in the Southern Highlands, so I have not bathed, I put my hair in a ponytail, am in a grungy skirt and have brought water. At 9.15, Jen and Juster bathe, they wear the equivalent of Tanzanian prom dresses, they shine their high heeled sandals, they put on their best wigs and they even wear make up. I realize meeting another American is a big deal for them. So I drink chai for a hour and a half while they get ready to "Exercise". Finally, they are more decked out than when they go to church and we sent off.
The walk is exhausting as I predicted but they manage pretty well in their heels... they only have to be removed on one downhill slope. After a while one of them realizes we are lost and so they both pull out their cell phone and start babbling away to different male teachers, who are worried because they have me lost in the woods. I am not worried and more amused by my two Tanzanian best friends who are dressed up and lost in the woods. Juster is afraid I am scared though so she tells me that is someone comes to steal from me again that she and Jen will beat him and fight for me. I laugh, I can't help it, you should see how ridiculous they look, but I appreciate the back up, all the same. We decide on one direction and start going. Finally we reach some one's farm where a small girl is working. Jen asks her where this school is and she says nothing but starts to lead us. They both ask her questions, none of which she answers. Finally, they start to speak English to each other, so that the girl doesn't understand, but I do and it is hilarious.
Jen: This girl does not answer anything we say.
Juster: Yes, I do not like this. She has red eyes. She is a witch.
Jen: Yes, I have realized this.
Me: (In My Head): What? I Have not realized this! How did I miss the red eyes?
Juster: You must dismiss her. She might be trapping us. Look, there is a forest, she could kill us there.
Jen: We can dismiss her or else she will become offended and kill us anyway.
Juster: That is true. (Turns to me) Brie, quickly say a prayer to God to save us.
Me: (I have to laugh at this point and sometimes I like to mess with Juster... so I say:) How about I say a prayer to the Goddess who probably lives in one of these beautiful pine trees. (I bow my head) Dear Goddess please protect us from this small six year old child who has red eyes and wants to take us here to kill us....
Juster: Americans are really so weird. Josh believes in no God and you believe in a woman in a tree. It is not right.
Miraculously, we make it through the forest to the school and the girl doesn't kill us. Shocker.
I like Tally immediately, from her pretty smile to her talkative personality I will enjoy her company immensely. She will be teaching biology at an all girls secondary school and we have already come up with some project ideas to do together. She has only been at site for a week and in country for three months. She is coming to visit me at my site on Monday. We walk to town together to buy stuff to make dinner. A woman at one of the shops asks her a question. I glance over at Tally and she is looking at me expectantly. I think: "Who is this girl in my role? It is my job to look at another volunteer for a translation." I am shocked she is expecting me to know what is going on, but I am even more shocked that I understand what is going on. So I patiently translate and then help her to answer, but I think "Since when do I know Swahili?" After that I am surprised I know many things that she asks. I tell her tricks to start her charcoal jiko, teach her greetings in Kibena, draw her a map of PC sites in our region, teach her how to make a candle holder out of paper and a water bottle, and answer her many questions about living alone in Africa, that I asked only a few months ago. I am surprised I know any answers. Since when did I learn how to survive in Africa? How did I not notice the change? I thought I was still as helpless as ever. Furthermore she is actually impressed with what I have done here and what I know, with the fact that Juster tells me she loves me when we say good bye. And I think, "Yeah, Maybe I do have some good relationships and things going here." It is a weird feeling to be impressing anyone.
Today, I am in Njombe to sort out getting a new bank card. On Saturday, I am going to a BBQ at the Kibena Club with Zummi and Adina and then to their house to stay the night, which is about as close as you can get to a vacation here without spending any money. Looking forward to seeing them as it has been some time since I have been in Dar and they have gone to Arusha. The next time I will come through Njombe will be for X-mas, though it doesn't feel like that time of year. Next week I will plant my garden and get through another week here. As I fix my house up I wonder about all those people who said they wanted to come visit. Who will be the first person to buy a ticket? I know it is expensive for the flight, but not once you are here. If you want to come to Africa this is the time and the place. Tanzania is wonderful: Zanzibar, the Serengeti, Kilimanjaro and Me! Please try to visit.
There is a new volunteer who lives very close to me. I wanted to go visit her, so I told Jen and Juster what I was doing. The tell me there is a shortcut to get to her school that makes the walk only 7k, they will take me there. I tell them just to point me in the direction but Juster is insistent that they accompany me. So I tell them I want to leave at 8 am Thursday morning, which I really have no intention of doing, but sometimes you have to lie about time to Tanzanians. I go to Juster's house at 9 am to find her drinking chai. She says, "Brie, Don't mind, but I need to bathe." This I have already predicted. I know we are going on a walk in the Southern Highlands, so I have not bathed, I put my hair in a ponytail, am in a grungy skirt and have brought water. At 9.15, Jen and Juster bathe, they wear the equivalent of Tanzanian prom dresses, they shine their high heeled sandals, they put on their best wigs and they even wear make up. I realize meeting another American is a big deal for them. So I drink chai for a hour and a half while they get ready to "Exercise". Finally, they are more decked out than when they go to church and we sent off.
The walk is exhausting as I predicted but they manage pretty well in their heels... they only have to be removed on one downhill slope. After a while one of them realizes we are lost and so they both pull out their cell phone and start babbling away to different male teachers, who are worried because they have me lost in the woods. I am not worried and more amused by my two Tanzanian best friends who are dressed up and lost in the woods. Juster is afraid I am scared though so she tells me that is someone comes to steal from me again that she and Jen will beat him and fight for me. I laugh, I can't help it, you should see how ridiculous they look, but I appreciate the back up, all the same. We decide on one direction and start going. Finally we reach some one's farm where a small girl is working. Jen asks her where this school is and she says nothing but starts to lead us. They both ask her questions, none of which she answers. Finally, they start to speak English to each other, so that the girl doesn't understand, but I do and it is hilarious.
Jen: This girl does not answer anything we say.
Juster: Yes, I do not like this. She has red eyes. She is a witch.
Jen: Yes, I have realized this.
Me: (In My Head): What? I Have not realized this! How did I miss the red eyes?
Juster: You must dismiss her. She might be trapping us. Look, there is a forest, she could kill us there.
Jen: We can dismiss her or else she will become offended and kill us anyway.
Juster: That is true. (Turns to me) Brie, quickly say a prayer to God to save us.
Me: (I have to laugh at this point and sometimes I like to mess with Juster... so I say:) How about I say a prayer to the Goddess who probably lives in one of these beautiful pine trees. (I bow my head) Dear Goddess please protect us from this small six year old child who has red eyes and wants to take us here to kill us....
Juster: Americans are really so weird. Josh believes in no God and you believe in a woman in a tree. It is not right.
Miraculously, we make it through the forest to the school and the girl doesn't kill us. Shocker.
I like Tally immediately, from her pretty smile to her talkative personality I will enjoy her company immensely. She will be teaching biology at an all girls secondary school and we have already come up with some project ideas to do together. She has only been at site for a week and in country for three months. She is coming to visit me at my site on Monday. We walk to town together to buy stuff to make dinner. A woman at one of the shops asks her a question. I glance over at Tally and she is looking at me expectantly. I think: "Who is this girl in my role? It is my job to look at another volunteer for a translation." I am shocked she is expecting me to know what is going on, but I am even more shocked that I understand what is going on. So I patiently translate and then help her to answer, but I think "Since when do I know Swahili?" After that I am surprised I know many things that she asks. I tell her tricks to start her charcoal jiko, teach her greetings in Kibena, draw her a map of PC sites in our region, teach her how to make a candle holder out of paper and a water bottle, and answer her many questions about living alone in Africa, that I asked only a few months ago. I am surprised I know any answers. Since when did I learn how to survive in Africa? How did I not notice the change? I thought I was still as helpless as ever. Furthermore she is actually impressed with what I have done here and what I know, with the fact that Juster tells me she loves me when we say good bye. And I think, "Yeah, Maybe I do have some good relationships and things going here." It is a weird feeling to be impressing anyone.
Today, I am in Njombe to sort out getting a new bank card. On Saturday, I am going to a BBQ at the Kibena Club with Zummi and Adina and then to their house to stay the night, which is about as close as you can get to a vacation here without spending any money. Looking forward to seeing them as it has been some time since I have been in Dar and they have gone to Arusha. The next time I will come through Njombe will be for X-mas, though it doesn't feel like that time of year. Next week I will plant my garden and get through another week here. As I fix my house up I wonder about all those people who said they wanted to come visit. Who will be the first person to buy a ticket? I know it is expensive for the flight, but not once you are here. If you want to come to Africa this is the time and the place. Tanzania is wonderful: Zanzibar, the Serengeti, Kilimanjaro and Me! Please try to visit.
Kimulimuli and My First African Wedding
December 6, 2008
The day I got back to village I felt relieved. Lonely, but relieved. Juster and the rest of the teachers were appalled at what happened to me in Dar. Juster had been so worried since I did not answer any of her phone calls that she actually cried and hugged me when she saw me. Then she told me that I am never allowed to go anywhere again without her as my bodyguard. (Which she said in English... It is amazing the words she knows.) So on that note I told her about in-service training (IST) which is an all expense paid trip for me and my Tanzanian counterpart to attend a two week long conference with the rest of the PCVs down here in Iringa. I am not sure I have ever seen her so happy. She screamed with delight and she told me she will be dreaming about it until it happens in January.
I have been talking on the phone or texting with Roma on a daily basis this week. It has been great for my Kiswahili as he is patient and corrects me in our phone conversations and before I text him I have to write it all out and then pull out my dictionary to decipher his texts. I am in the process of planning a bike trip for me, Margaret, Teresa, and the two new volunteers out our way to go and visit him. It might not be until after IST, but he is pushing for next Tuesday... Haha. But I am glad he is excited to see us. He has already promised drumming and dancing and that he is going to come to my village to visit me soon.
And then there is Kimulimuli... Where do I start? I now own something that looks like Golom from Lord of the Rings. I have wondered often why I got into the business of helping people, when usually I prefer animals. Animals don't love conditionally, they are uncomplicated and I feel for them. Which I guess is how I ended up with a bat cat. Kimulimuli (Means firefly in Swahili) now officially live together, and everyday I am surprised that we have both made it through the day alive. Kimulimuli's soul goal in life is to drive me crazy. It is slightly bigger than my fist and the most pathetic animal you have ever met. It's eyes bug out of it's head. It's ears are abnormally large. Really it is the most ridiculous animal I have ever seen. It doesn't even clean itself or know how to retract it's claws. In fact, it can't do anything. It's mouth is always open making ridiculous noise, it can't be alone for a minute. I feed it and feed it and it eats and eats and already it has gained weight in the week we have co-habited. (But I am sure he would enjoy some high fat kitty treats from America). He climbs up me constantly... I am not sure what he would do once he got to my face but I don't want to find out. He is like a primary school student that you want to hold and love but are unsure of what you might catch if you do. It is hard to believe it is the same species and my beloved Angel Baby Cat in America. I don't know how I will ever get any work done with it all over me. Oh- I am going to get fleas. Being lonely might be better than this. I don't know why I wanted something to take care of. It is hard enough to care for myself.
I went to my first Tanzanian wedding today. I have been to eight funerals, so I am sort of an expert on those, but didn't know what to expect for a wedding. It was fun for about the first 3 hours, but for the last four I was tired and thirsty. (Yep- That's right seven hours, it took all day and there wasn't even any booze involved.) This wedding was a big deal because the man was from my village but the bride was from another one (Roma's actually, but he was not there.) So There was lots of excitement about the merging of the two communities. It started out inside the church but got too big and moved outside in the church yard and then moved again to this random central area in our village. There was a lot of singing, dancing, chanting, hooting, ululating, drumming and all around noise making. I doubt if you put a group of Americans together and told them to make noise at random it would sound good, but when Africans do it the noise somehow works and is beautiful. At I guess what would be the reception, I sat in these seats of honor with the rest of the male teachers, which was a bit weird because we are not related to the family, but the teachers in my village are considered the most important people, but somehow I always get segregated with the men. Until it was time for dancing when I was forced to dance with the female teachers in front of my entire village. Yep, that's right, Brie dancing in the middle of a random African village. Good thing the African dance classes paid off... my village loved it. I am not sure I have ever been so embarrassed, yet it was the biggest thing I have done so far to be included. I can tell suddenly now the villagers feel closer with me, like I am suddenly on there level. When I got home I found a present from Kimulimuli on my couch... and not the type you like to get.
The day I got back to village I felt relieved. Lonely, but relieved. Juster and the rest of the teachers were appalled at what happened to me in Dar. Juster had been so worried since I did not answer any of her phone calls that she actually cried and hugged me when she saw me. Then she told me that I am never allowed to go anywhere again without her as my bodyguard. (Which she said in English... It is amazing the words she knows.) So on that note I told her about in-service training (IST) which is an all expense paid trip for me and my Tanzanian counterpart to attend a two week long conference with the rest of the PCVs down here in Iringa. I am not sure I have ever seen her so happy. She screamed with delight and she told me she will be dreaming about it until it happens in January.
I have been talking on the phone or texting with Roma on a daily basis this week. It has been great for my Kiswahili as he is patient and corrects me in our phone conversations and before I text him I have to write it all out and then pull out my dictionary to decipher his texts. I am in the process of planning a bike trip for me, Margaret, Teresa, and the two new volunteers out our way to go and visit him. It might not be until after IST, but he is pushing for next Tuesday... Haha. But I am glad he is excited to see us. He has already promised drumming and dancing and that he is going to come to my village to visit me soon.
And then there is Kimulimuli... Where do I start? I now own something that looks like Golom from Lord of the Rings. I have wondered often why I got into the business of helping people, when usually I prefer animals. Animals don't love conditionally, they are uncomplicated and I feel for them. Which I guess is how I ended up with a bat cat. Kimulimuli (Means firefly in Swahili) now officially live together, and everyday I am surprised that we have both made it through the day alive. Kimulimuli's soul goal in life is to drive me crazy. It is slightly bigger than my fist and the most pathetic animal you have ever met. It's eyes bug out of it's head. It's ears are abnormally large. Really it is the most ridiculous animal I have ever seen. It doesn't even clean itself or know how to retract it's claws. In fact, it can't do anything. It's mouth is always open making ridiculous noise, it can't be alone for a minute. I feed it and feed it and it eats and eats and already it has gained weight in the week we have co-habited. (But I am sure he would enjoy some high fat kitty treats from America). He climbs up me constantly... I am not sure what he would do once he got to my face but I don't want to find out. He is like a primary school student that you want to hold and love but are unsure of what you might catch if you do. It is hard to believe it is the same species and my beloved Angel Baby Cat in America. I don't know how I will ever get any work done with it all over me. Oh- I am going to get fleas. Being lonely might be better than this. I don't know why I wanted something to take care of. It is hard enough to care for myself.
I went to my first Tanzanian wedding today. I have been to eight funerals, so I am sort of an expert on those, but didn't know what to expect for a wedding. It was fun for about the first 3 hours, but for the last four I was tired and thirsty. (Yep- That's right seven hours, it took all day and there wasn't even any booze involved.) This wedding was a big deal because the man was from my village but the bride was from another one (Roma's actually, but he was not there.) So There was lots of excitement about the merging of the two communities. It started out inside the church but got too big and moved outside in the church yard and then moved again to this random central area in our village. There was a lot of singing, dancing, chanting, hooting, ululating, drumming and all around noise making. I doubt if you put a group of Americans together and told them to make noise at random it would sound good, but when Africans do it the noise somehow works and is beautiful. At I guess what would be the reception, I sat in these seats of honor with the rest of the male teachers, which was a bit weird because we are not related to the family, but the teachers in my village are considered the most important people, but somehow I always get segregated with the men. Until it was time for dancing when I was forced to dance with the female teachers in front of my entire village. Yep, that's right, Brie dancing in the middle of a random African village. Good thing the African dance classes paid off... my village loved it. I am not sure I have ever been so embarrassed, yet it was the biggest thing I have done so far to be included. I can tell suddenly now the villagers feel closer with me, like I am suddenly on there level. When I got home I found a present from Kimulimuli on my couch... and not the type you like to get.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Moshi and that shithole we call our capital...
"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose..."
-Janis
November 27- Now (December 4)
I went to Moshi (means "Smoke") for Thanksgiving. Moshi town is much bigger and more bustling than Njombe because it is the setting off point to trek Kilimanjaro. I like Moshi town although I am glad it is not my banking town as prices are high as it has tourism (unlike Njo, where the only reason why you would come down here is to visit me.) Moshi area looks a lot more like I pictured Africa looking. It is hot, green, mountainous and tropical-ish. I am only able to go on this vacation because Josh pays for everything- staying, eating, traveling, etc. Since I have no money. But I am relieved to not be left in Dar during Thanksgiving. So I walk around like a child, no phone, bag, money except when he gives me an allowance.
We go to another volunteer's site for Thanksgiving. Leigh is an Ed volunteer from Boston who has been in country for a year now. She lives a few hours outside of Moshi in a beautiful little village. Her house is adorable and has given me many ideas for how to decorate my own. There are about 15 volunteers from the region at her home and meeting them re-affirmed my belief that PCVs are great people on all ends of this country. We slept on mattresses covering every floor space of her house but one night we were awoken with one of the PCVs yelling because a scorpion had just stung him. It was pretty big and didn't live long with that many freaked out PCVs. Leigh had a big oven built in her yard. It is made of bricks with tin flaps for doors. There is a chamber to shovel charcoal in under where you can put food to cook.
On Thanksgiving we keep this oven blazing all day. Celebrating a holiday like Thanksgiving is a lot of work in Africa. People were up around six to start preparations and we didn't eat until maybe 8.30 pm. A volunteer had gotten a turkey, which some volunteers slaughtered while I hid in the house pretending it was not happening. It is pretty easy for many not eat meat here when you have to butcher the animal yourself. We eat dinner on the floor by the light of many candles (no electricity) and we go around with everyone saying what they are thankful for. (The common denominator is: each other.) We end up having to eat the pies first because they are ready and nothing else is. We have made pumpkin, mango and pineapple pies. Then we feast on green beans, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and many many things. Doesn't quite seem exactly like Thanksgiving, but it was pretty close under the circumstances that we live. There is a huge rainstorm that day and Leigh and I run outside and dance in the mud puddles barefoot. We slide through the mud on cardboard and are soaked immediately. Her village might think we are a bit crazy :-) But she is awesome and we were enjoying the change in our seasons here.
I feel much better after spending some time in a village but it is time to go back to Dar es Salaam. I don't know if it is clear yet, but I hate the Port of "Peace". Let me paint you a picture of Dar: It is unbearable. The heat is oppressive. The mosquitoes are ruthless. It is dirty. It is crowded. You cannot walk two feet without someone yelling at you. Cars don't stop for pedestrians anywhere in Tanzania but with the traffic and crowds in Dar getting through town by foot is risking your life. But worse is riding a dala... crammed together with some people standing up or hanging out the door, the few traffic lights are only a guidelines. It should be said that the cars and roads are set up like England on the wrong side but in Tanzania every oncoming car is like a game of chicken: who is going which way? I close my eyes. I picture my village. One positive things that can be said about Dar is that the food is amazing. I ate a ton of Indian food- this is pretty much Dar's only redeeming quality. I hate being back there as I have to face that many of my friends are COSing and heading back to the states and the fact that I have no money and now have to go to the PC office to deal with this.
Turns out PC wants a copy of the police report... great... back to the Police Station. Josh goes with me and it takes over an hour to retain this "copy". The central police station in the biggest city in this country is sort of a joke. Of course there are no computers and room after room we are lead into just has stacks and stacks of yellow, crinkled papers- some filing system. They finally find mine, but the guy has to hand write the "copy". Efficiency is something that is lost in this country. While he is writing he stops often to chat with people, check his phone, talk to us about nothing related... it is an experience.
My last night in Dar we decide to go all out as it has been a rough time. Josh, Benja, and Jonathan (All heading back to America), Tom (an SPW volunteer), Patrick and Megan (RPCVs who have stayed and work in Dar) and I all go out to celebrate. We go to the nicest hotel in the city. It has fountain and pools in front and a red carpet. I can't even believe it is in Tanzania. We have dinner in this private banquet hall with a rose petal centerpiece. We drink chilled white wine. The staff thinks we are really important, little do they know they are catering to a bunch on PCVs. After dinner we go up to have drinks on the roof. It is really a beautiful night but difficult as I say goodbye to so many of my friends.
The next day I am on a bus back to Njombe. As we climb the last hill to get into town and I see the pine trees swaying in the never ceasing wind. It begins to pour rain as the sky darkens and turns into the biggest lightening and thunderstorm I have ever seen. To an extent I have never felt more lonely or depressed as I return to my banking town alone just in time for the sky to open up. I have nothing. Though, somewhere inside there is a sense of peace. Recognition of what is familiar. I am alone, but I am the only constant.
-Janis
November 27- Now (December 4)
I went to Moshi (means "Smoke") for Thanksgiving. Moshi town is much bigger and more bustling than Njombe because it is the setting off point to trek Kilimanjaro. I like Moshi town although I am glad it is not my banking town as prices are high as it has tourism (unlike Njo, where the only reason why you would come down here is to visit me.) Moshi area looks a lot more like I pictured Africa looking. It is hot, green, mountainous and tropical-ish. I am only able to go on this vacation because Josh pays for everything- staying, eating, traveling, etc. Since I have no money. But I am relieved to not be left in Dar during Thanksgiving. So I walk around like a child, no phone, bag, money except when he gives me an allowance.
We go to another volunteer's site for Thanksgiving. Leigh is an Ed volunteer from Boston who has been in country for a year now. She lives a few hours outside of Moshi in a beautiful little village. Her house is adorable and has given me many ideas for how to decorate my own. There are about 15 volunteers from the region at her home and meeting them re-affirmed my belief that PCVs are great people on all ends of this country. We slept on mattresses covering every floor space of her house but one night we were awoken with one of the PCVs yelling because a scorpion had just stung him. It was pretty big and didn't live long with that many freaked out PCVs. Leigh had a big oven built in her yard. It is made of bricks with tin flaps for doors. There is a chamber to shovel charcoal in under where you can put food to cook.
On Thanksgiving we keep this oven blazing all day. Celebrating a holiday like Thanksgiving is a lot of work in Africa. People were up around six to start preparations and we didn't eat until maybe 8.30 pm. A volunteer had gotten a turkey, which some volunteers slaughtered while I hid in the house pretending it was not happening. It is pretty easy for many not eat meat here when you have to butcher the animal yourself. We eat dinner on the floor by the light of many candles (no electricity) and we go around with everyone saying what they are thankful for. (The common denominator is: each other.) We end up having to eat the pies first because they are ready and nothing else is. We have made pumpkin, mango and pineapple pies. Then we feast on green beans, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and many many things. Doesn't quite seem exactly like Thanksgiving, but it was pretty close under the circumstances that we live. There is a huge rainstorm that day and Leigh and I run outside and dance in the mud puddles barefoot. We slide through the mud on cardboard and are soaked immediately. Her village might think we are a bit crazy :-) But she is awesome and we were enjoying the change in our seasons here.
I feel much better after spending some time in a village but it is time to go back to Dar es Salaam. I don't know if it is clear yet, but I hate the Port of "Peace". Let me paint you a picture of Dar: It is unbearable. The heat is oppressive. The mosquitoes are ruthless. It is dirty. It is crowded. You cannot walk two feet without someone yelling at you. Cars don't stop for pedestrians anywhere in Tanzania but with the traffic and crowds in Dar getting through town by foot is risking your life. But worse is riding a dala... crammed together with some people standing up or hanging out the door, the few traffic lights are only a guidelines. It should be said that the cars and roads are set up like England on the wrong side but in Tanzania every oncoming car is like a game of chicken: who is going which way? I close my eyes. I picture my village. One positive things that can be said about Dar is that the food is amazing. I ate a ton of Indian food- this is pretty much Dar's only redeeming quality. I hate being back there as I have to face that many of my friends are COSing and heading back to the states and the fact that I have no money and now have to go to the PC office to deal with this.
Turns out PC wants a copy of the police report... great... back to the Police Station. Josh goes with me and it takes over an hour to retain this "copy". The central police station in the biggest city in this country is sort of a joke. Of course there are no computers and room after room we are lead into just has stacks and stacks of yellow, crinkled papers- some filing system. They finally find mine, but the guy has to hand write the "copy". Efficiency is something that is lost in this country. While he is writing he stops often to chat with people, check his phone, talk to us about nothing related... it is an experience.
My last night in Dar we decide to go all out as it has been a rough time. Josh, Benja, and Jonathan (All heading back to America), Tom (an SPW volunteer), Patrick and Megan (RPCVs who have stayed and work in Dar) and I all go out to celebrate. We go to the nicest hotel in the city. It has fountain and pools in front and a red carpet. I can't even believe it is in Tanzania. We have dinner in this private banquet hall with a rose petal centerpiece. We drink chilled white wine. The staff thinks we are really important, little do they know they are catering to a bunch on PCVs. After dinner we go up to have drinks on the roof. It is really a beautiful night but difficult as I say goodbye to so many of my friends.
The next day I am on a bus back to Njombe. As we climb the last hill to get into town and I see the pine trees swaying in the never ceasing wind. It begins to pour rain as the sky darkens and turns into the biggest lightening and thunderstorm I have ever seen. To an extent I have never felt more lonely or depressed as I return to my banking town alone just in time for the sky to open up. I have nothing. Though, somewhere inside there is a sense of peace. Recognition of what is familiar. I am alone, but I am the only constant.
New Phone Number
Yay! I have a phone.
New Number From the States Dial: +255 788244289
I still have no service at my site for talking but can receive texts and talk when I am in town.
New Number From the States Dial: +255 788244289
I still have no service at my site for talking but can receive texts and talk when I am in town.
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