Saturday, March 20, 2010

And the boys run away...

"I wish that I was born a man, so I could learn how to stand up for myself, like those guys with guitars, I've been watchin' in bars, who are stampin' their feet to a different beat, to a different beat. I will not pretend, I will not put on a smile, I will not say I'm alright for you. When all I wanted was to be good, to do everything in true, to do everything in true." - Martha Wainwright


March 14, 2010



Morning. A knock at my door. I open it to find one of my standard seven girls standing there alone. She is terrified and visably shaking. I invite her in and she comes to sit tenitively on my couch. I wait only a minute for her to speak when she blurts out, "Brie, I am pregnant." I try unsuccessfully to hide my shock. So I say, "What?" Maybe I am not understanding her. She says the exact same sentince again... nope not a mistake. Her big brown eyes search mine for answers, then she eyes the crayons left over from Catherine yesterday. I look at her small hands, her child's body, her ripped primary school uniform and I offer her the crayons because I have no idea what to say. Come on, Brienne. Finally, I say, "Umm... do you know how far along you are?" "I think about four months."I can't believe that she is coloring. "Do you have parents?" She lives with her mother and grandmother, her father lives in Makambako with his other wife. "Do they know?" No. "Does the head teacher know?" No. "Does anyone know?" Just the father. "Where is the father now?" When I told him, he said that I was a liar and it wasn't his. Then he ran away to another village. Of course he did, I think. I am about to ask her if she has thought about her choices when I realize that she doesn't have any choices. She is an African child. So I promise to try to help her, but explain that this does not mean that I will take her baby. I ask her what her name and age are- Loveness, about 13.



Turns out, she will be kicked out of primary school in about 2 months. Jessica does a priliminary exam, things look fine health wise. Felix is aware of who the father is and is prepared to have some sort of plan to find him. Loveness' mother and grandmother have minimal reaction. I am surprised, until I think about my village and how many young women have children with no fathers. I realize how how many female friends I have with babies on their backs, but where have all the babas gone? So in another informal "Brie-vey" I start asking that very question.


First stop is Felix and his wife, Mama Glad. They run the shop across the street from my house. Felix is my new village chairman, making him Image's Barak Obama. He is almost as cool. I love talking about issues with he and Mama Glad. Even though Felix is a 36 year old man, he is really open with me. We discuss gender roles, sex, AIDS, domestic abuse, etc. and he is honest with me, even if he know that I will not like the result. Mama Glad is tough and will say exactly what she thinks even in front of her husband. They are both incredibly good natured, even compared to other Tanzanians who are good natured as a rule. In the shop, after greeting, I say"What is up with all the single mothers here?" Felix gives me his smile that says he is going to answer my question, but that I am not going to like the answer.




Felix: Well, a lot of women are trying to find a husband and they think that if they get pregnant that the man might marry them. Or they just feel so lonely that they want to have a kid.
Me: Okay, but don't you think that they are lonely because their husband and lovers are never home, they are always at the bar with their friends?
Felix (laughing): Maybe. Sometimes, women are just foolish and they believe that a man will stay with them.
Mama Glad (in full tongue-clicking dismay): Ah! You know that is not true! Brie, they lie to us! They tell us that they love us that they will marry us if we give them a good child. But then they just run away! Or they are already married with another family- they are cowards and liars!
Felix (laughing at her outburst): She is right, but women must be tougher.
(We go on like this for awhile...)

In Tanzania, it is not rude to ask people personal questions. So I ask Mama Jonas, Mama Poli, Mama Samweli, Mama Umi, Mama Johnson, Mama Aggy.... and more... I get varying answers: he already had another family, he raped me, he told me he would marry me, he ran away... I ask some guys too (all are married and deny ever getting a woman pregnant and leaving): Os, Nicky, Fredrick, Puce, Stan, Bon, Titu, even Mzee Ngoda. Their main response is: The women lie, they want to have a lover then they get pregnant and expect the guy to stay. They all want kids and we don't have to have just one wife. Then I ask Mwalango, one of my young male primary school teachers. Shortly after I got to Image, he got one of my village ladies, Tao, pregnant. Today they are married and have a beautiful son named Ima. Mwalango tells me, "I love her. I told her I did. When she was pregnant I stayed by her. I did what I said I would do." Wow- It is just that easy.

Then there is Asha. I love Asha. She is from Songea (town to the south), we are the same age and she is my village barmaid. She is not married and has a daughter, Suze, who is five. As a rule, Tanzanian barmaids almost always double as prostitutes. The going village price is about two dollars, (it is less if the girl insists on using a condom). When Asha first came to Image, I watched how she dealt with the men- with humor, with toughness, as an equal. One day I came in to buy eggs, before she saw me, I saw one of the village guys hitting on her- then I heard her use one of my lines! She laughed and said strongly, "Ha! Why would I do anything with you? Don't you have a wife? I am too good to be part of that." That is my line! I taught the women to respond like that! I came up, glared the guy down and smiled at Asha. Since that moment, when Asha picked up my female empowerment teaching we have been close. I watch her strongly and sweetly reject money and guy after guy. Finally, I convinced Mama Max that Asha should get paid more, so that she never feels the pressure to accept. Mama Max, being as awesome as she is, sees the benefit for all women and agrees to the raise.

Once when I was teaching about AIDS testing at the bar, Asha excitedly ran to her room and came back proudly brandishing her testing card which indicated that she had been tested three times- all negative. The guys all start in with questions about her testing and she said, "There is no way that I can let myself get AIDS because who would take care of Suze?" As I mentioned, I LOVE Asha.

So I ask her: Where is Baba Suze?
Asha: He told me that he loved me, but when I got pregnant he chose another lover and ran away from me. Suze has never met him. He hurt me, I will not let Suze be hurt.

I reminded her to teach her daughter to be strong too.



It is odd, but because I am so close with Felix and Romanus (my top government people), I am sort of an honorary village government person. We were hanging out for office hours listening to peoples complaints- so and so stole some of my corn or I want to open a bar here but need some money to start off. Blah blah. Eventually thirteen people come in all fired up. X is sleeping with Y but they should be sleeping with Z but he is with A. I never could get it all straight, especially because it was always three plus people talking at once. Felix and Romanus both listen carefully in Tanzanian style- not rushing, going around and around in circles, enjoying the drama of it all. After about two hours of this, I interrupt, "Hey, I have a thought. How about we all think to ourselves for a minute: Am I married? If we are than maybe we should think about just sleeping with that person. If we aren't we should pick just one person that we want to sleep with, see if they want to sleep with us tooand go to Brie's house to pick up some condoms." Romanus and Felix smile at me. Everyone else stares like I have just turned water to Safari Lager. An hour later, all thirteen people are at my house collecting condoms. Can these little pieces of rubber solve all of Tanzania's problems?

Thursday, March 4, 2010

"I have got to get someone to look at all this fungus!"

Recently

Ahh, fungus on my arms, a constant sore throat, ringworm, fleas... yep, you guessed it... I am spending a lot of time with Image Village's children. And believe me there is no shortage of them. I think probably 75% of women at child bearing age will have or already have had a child while I have lived there. Mama Lau is pregnant, William's wife is pregnant, Osmond's wife is pregnant, Stan's wife is pregnant... The list goes on. Anyways, I play with kids that are already born. I hold their grubby hands, they sneeze on me, they wipe their noses on my shirt... and I take it all. I ignore that clothes smell like pee and don't think about what I might be catching. I pick up kids who are crying, spin kids by their arms, have huge coloring parties, have skipping races down our main street. Since I am the only adult that gives any child an iota of positive attention, I have gotten pretty popular in Image. Shouts of "Brieeeee!" follow me everywhere.

Kimulimuli seems to being doing better. He is now subsisting on a diet composed of avocados (his wishes, not mine.) We had a huge party because Puce butchered a pig. Image villagers get meat so rarely that it calls for a party. Anyways, I brought Muli some of it and he wanted none of it. Probably making him the most spoiled cat in Africa. I can't believe that I was even able to turn my cat into being a vegetarian!!!!

A noise in the night... not animal, not just the house shifting, distinct footsteps.... Really? Again? I reach the bedside table and curl my fingers around my huge Tanzanian machete. I am prepared this time. The footfalls in the grass pass under my window, from the sound of the crickets and where the moon is I would guess that it is about two am. The footsteps continue on. I begin to breathe again. I giggle a little bit at myself. What is a girl like me doing prepared to use a machete? Would I actually be able to use it on a person? I maybe have changed more than I thought in Tanzania. Still, because I am a wimp, I take the machete and a blanket to my living room couch where I sleep for the next week. Almost two years in and I still let myself be afraid here, I hate that I am not tougher. I try to do the math of the hundreds of nights I have spent in my village and the fact that I have only had an incident once. What is the probability it will ever happen again? I don't know because I have never been good at math. :-) I admit to William that I am scared again. Has he heard anyone talk about breaking in? He assures me, "Brie you are safe here. Everyone is respecting you. If something happens we will just do what we did before. You scare him away and call me." Which is true, everyone is "respecting" me. I tell Felix, my village chairperson who I LOVE, that I am scared again. He says, "Hamnashida, Brie, Usijali." Literally: Not a problem, Brie, don't mind. Felix calls a meeting with my guards and asks them to be extra vigilant. Turns out one of my guards went on a pee break on that side of my house and just took the back way to walk around. I was afraid of my own guards. I am an idiot.

I spent a good part of one day watching a soap opera with half my village on our tv. It was originally in Spanish and then dubbed in English. Then I translated where need be into Swahili. It was maybe the stupidest show I have ever seen, however, I love watching tv with my villagers. They are so shocked and surprised by anything that happens. They find the wrong things hilarious and because Tanzanians have a verbal sound for every reaction, tv watching is never a quiet or individual type thing.

I read one of the best books that I have ever read this week (actually it all took place from Friday evening to Saturday evening). It is called "Twenty Chickens for a Saddle: Story of an African Childhood" by Robyn Scott. It is about a family from New Zealand, where the parents decide to move to Botswana. The oldest child writes the story of her family's adventures. It was brilliant. Read it and let me know if you do! I actually cried at the end, not because it was sad, but because I didn't want it to end. On a side note, if you know my parents you are bound to see similarities between her parents and my own. They are vegetarian. The dad is always giving his kids little pieces of wisdom, trying to get them interested in whatever project he is working on, and the part where he is dissecting a puff adder, I couldn't help but think about my Dad and the koi. The mom is a jack of all trades type, with knowledge about everything. She home schools her kids and sees everything as a learning experience. She is very into natural medicine and healing. (Mom- she even uses Rescue Remedy on all their pets like you do!) At the end of the book, I missed my family more than ever. If you know my family than give my parents, sisters and brothers all a big huge from me!